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EdibWasa Winter 2014 : Page38

baked Amy’s product, you've tasted Central Milling flour. Their flour is also featured in the loaves of one of Utah's most well known and respected bakeries, Crumb Brothers, also a Logan-based company. Bill Oblock, who owns Crumb Brothers, told me he uses Central Milling's organic flour for the same reason a winery in Bourdeaux would want to use grapes grown in the region. "Bread is like wine," Oblock told me. "It's the terroir of a place. It's about how the soil and the humidity of a place affect the wheat, and how all of that stuff affects the flavor and character of your starter and then your finished bread. And because Central Milling can provide us with consistent organic flour, which is hard to do, we know what kind of flavors to expect when we bake our bread." For commercial bakeries like Crumb Brothers, consistency is the name of the game. They need to know how starters and yeast will interact with the nutrients and chemicals in flour, and the more reli-able the outcomes, the better the loaves. Lynn Perry explained that Central Milling has a test lab to ensure consistent mineral, chemical and moisture contents throughout the milling process, as well as to ensure that their organic flours are not contaminated with pesticide residues. Central Milling’s exacting approach to grain production extends from seed to farm to mill to baker to table. Perry told me the company often works with individual bakers to develop flours that suit their needs and tastes. That means cultivating the right seeds at Wheatland Seed in Brigham; finding farm fields with the right altitude, weather and soil; working gg with farmers to manage the crop, p often using g organic gg practices; milling the g grain under the right g conditions (Perry: “not too hot, or you’ll damage the starch”); testing the flours at its California baking lab; training bakers to bake artisan bread; and get-ting it in the mouths of eager eaters. Nowhere else is Central Milling’s farm-to-table approach on greater exhibition than at Eva’s Bakery in downtown Salt Lake City. The Parisian-style boulangerie was established by Central Milling as a showcase for its organic flours and grains. Charlie Perry, Kent Perry’s

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